That’s Normal (Life in Madagascar)

It was the phrase we used more than any other during the two weeks I was in Madagascar: “That’s Normal.” I even captured it on video while riding a Tuk-Tuk one day with the kids and Danielle:

Heartbreaking & Humbling. I think those are the best two words that describe my time in Madagascar.

Heartbreaking because of the poverty (I guess I just didn’t expect that much.) Heartbreaking because of the lack of governmental infrastructure (to put it mildly). Heartbreaking to see the healthcare situation. Heartbreaking to see the priorities of the government and people.

Humbling because I so admire Neal and Danielle and their family. They amazed me before, but now all the more. What’s even better is their kids & how they’ve navigated growing up in Madagascar–and actually prefer it to life in a Western world. Even after tasting what that world is like, they understand the simplicity and “home” that Madagascar is for them.

Humbling, too, because of the people I got to meet and opportunities I had. Why me? Why did I get to go? Who am I? They’re questions I’ve often asked of myself in moments of suffering, but here it was in a moment of feeling so honored I didn’t deserve it.

I could go on and on & still need to formulate my thoughts, but here are some things that were just “normal” as we journeyed throughout the Red Island.

1. A Semi flipped on its side. This is what started the “It’s Normal” phrase. A two-lane road (the busiest in all of Madagascar) and a semi-truck was on one of the lanes on its side.

2. Potholes. More like craters. The worst I’d ever seen–and on the “highways,” including that busiest road. It took 2 hours to travel 36 miles & 8 hours to travel 190 miles. You can gauge the average speed limit. Whereas Southern California measures distances in time due to traffic, Madagascar measures it in time due to road conditions.

3. Narrow passageways. Whether it be roads, “sidewalks,” or even in the market, personal space is not a thing. Add to that animals, broken down cars (and people), and other objects and life is a one-way road with ten lanes merging into one!

4. Power out. Like every day. The only nights sleeping when power wasn’t out was when in a hotel or in a compound where the electricity was connected to a hospital. Using a CPAP machine was quite funny as I woke up gasping for air each night. Funny, at least until I got tired and cranky the next day.

5. Gospel sharing. I loved it! In contexts when I would ordinarily be too busy, Danielle would just talk with people about Jesus & urge them to come to faith. Inspiring and once again humbling.

6. Vazaha. That’s the word for foreigner (white person), as I understood it. Folks would come up to me speaking French because that is what they assumed I spoke. I guess most white folks there do. Traveling with the Carlstrom family was like traveling with celebrities because locals would be amazed that white people could speak Malagasy. And all five of them did it fluently. They wouldn’t tell you they’re very good at it, but they could do it. My language ineptitude made me feel very small. Sixteen-year-old Braiden reminded me of my ignorance when he told me that people who speak two languages are called bilingual, people who speak three languages are called trilingual, but people who speak only one language are called American.

7. Tuk-tuks and Pousse-Pousses everywhere. Manual powered Pousse-Pousse and motorized Tuk-Tuks flooded the streets as the main form of transportation around the city. And Neal managed to get one on the top of the ship for a community activity!

8. Patience with people. Missionaries are flooded with needs that people have. Whether it is beggars asking for help, friends and folks’ in their ministry needing help, or just random interruptions, it is constant. On the ship, at home, and even the demands of other ministries make life extremely difficult.

9. “Oh Yeah, I know them.” Whether due to celebrity status due the fact that they spoke Malagasy (see #6) or because the missionary world on the island is small, it felt like everywhere they went they knew someone. When conversations would come up with people they’d never met, often the Carlstroms would have some person who they share a friendship with. Maybe they’re like the Madagascar Kevin Bacon!

10. Airport runway on dirt. Not sure this was normal in Madagascar, but it was to the MAF pilot who flew us to Mandritsara. That was an experience I won’t soon forget. Apparently only 20 or so flights take place each month, so there was quite an audience watch take off and landing. Not easy as a pilot, I suspect.

11. Live power cord hanging from the power line. The kids didn’t even notice it. And that’s not 110 volts.

12. Fires without fire fighters. I grew up with volunteer firefighters, so I understand it has not always been a career like it is in the US today. But … to see multiple fires with NO ONE battling them was disturbing. No wonder the need for reforestation is so high!

13. Dogs, cows, zebu, chickens and other creatures running wild. Even on the airport runway. Guys with whistles were chirping for them to get off when the planes landed on the dirt path.

14. No ice. Apparently, lukewarm water is the preference there. Even on the Westernized ship, there was a cold water dispenser and a room-temperature water dispenser. The latter was actually more popular! Restaurants, homes, and more just didn’t put ice in drinks, whether water, a Coke, or juice.

15. Ants on pizza? Just freeze it. That’s right, you just flick them off once they’re frozen & the pizza is like new! Don’t knock it until you try it? No thanks.

16. Fruit and other stands very close to your car. Drive through is a thing there without it being a thing. Whether fruit, touristy-type things, meat hanging from a rack, or any other story you can imagine, you can basically pull up next to it and order what you want.

17. People washing in nasty water. Whether it was clothing or the people themselves, water–no matter what the condition–was used for washing.

18. Those same dirty rivers dry. Due to the time of the year, so many of the dirty rivers were dry, making the areas to wash even nastier.

19. Lemurs jumping on you. Yup! From the ground up on your shoulder. I’m 6’3″ and to see a lemur able to jump that high was incredible.

20. Lemurs pooping on you. Apparently, privacy isn’t a thing for them.

21. Big bugs. Like really big bugs.

22. People traveling days to see a doctor. And these people are injured or sick, to boot. This Swiss surgeon pictured shared with me about a patient he did stomach surgery on that day. She had traveled three days to receive the surgery. He told me about a child he saw who had a compound fracture. His father carried him five km with that bone sticking out only to then have to take another hour car ride … all without pain meds.

23. Groups of birders. Those are people who bird watch. We saw quite a few groups of people who were of this fraternity.

24. Lizards everywhere inside. And they are preferred to be there. They help with the bugs.

25. Mating calls from weird animals. Turtles and lemurs, to be specific. Who would have thought that turtles would have a mating call?

26. Expensive. I thought everything would be dirt cheap given the fact that so many people make just two dollars a day, but it was surprisingly expensive for many things. In part, it was because they had to import so much to the island, but another factor was just the cost of living compared to the pay people make is just not a healthy ratio. The cost of food was similar to how it was in the US in 2009 or 10. That surprised me big time (sorry for the lack of souvenirs, fam).

27. Gratefulness. For little things like fans, clean water, electricity, network connection, a common language, and diversity.

28. Amazing people. Despite the tragic reality of all that is overwhelming in Madagascar (and there is more than one can fathom), there are amazing people who are feverishly at work to do their best to help people and ultimately serve the Lord. Getting to meet them was like meeting a rockstar or star athlete. That, more than anything, is what made the trip so amazing.